![]() ![]() Not sure if this would work for your need, but if I understand your dilemma. I do not remember what I paid but definitely reasonable. The result was near perfect.Ībout three years ago I did a timberframe pergola in white oak and needed to do the same thing. This made for a real quick cut and gave me some time to fiddle with beltsander, r/o sander, chisel and even a few hand planes. I did this the poor man's way on my home shop by gang clamping all the rafters together, nailing on a fence, and running my circular saw at an angle - or actually several angles, several passes. Anyone have any experience with one of those hand held oscillating spindle sanders? ![]() My Bosh jig saw has a blade called the "Progressor" that is long enough so it’s just a matter of how much it will deflect. I am doing this as a side adventure in woodworking so losing $4,000.00 wouldn't work out. Mafell makes a portable band saw for that type cut also but very pricy. I think the long Festool blades fit the Bosch jig saw but not sure if they cut as good. We just cut some curves and notches in a 3 1/4" thick bar top with a Festool jig saw. So, the question is, does anyone have a better tool to cut curves in thick material that is too long and heavy for the band saw? I tried to get information on a tool called a Portaband and it seems as though that machine is made for cutting steel to length and doesn't have any sort of table/base to hold it at strictly 90 degrees to a surface while scroll cutting. I can foresee that the blade will wander out of square to the face even in a soft wood like cedar at this thickness. This is a pain because the stocks (western red cedar/tight knot) actual measurements are 2 5/8" x 5 5/8". I am sure it will be impossible to use any of my band saws to scroll the end of a 10 footer so with my tools the jig saw seems the only alternative. Unfortunately, the contractor wants to receive the work from me in the form of 10 foot long pieces scroll cut on both ends so that he has some latitude in cutting these pieces to final length before cutting the birdsmouth’s and "sistering" them to the rough fir framing. Check out the video to learn more.I landed a job cutting a scrolled pattern on all the rafter tails for a tudor styled house soon to be framed. Given the consistent results a CNC-milled product offers, and the labor savings (two days spent moving the job forward in other ways), for Sweenor this method outweighs site-built options for quality and cost. Sweenor says that to have these built on-site would have taken one of his carpenters two full days using a jigsaw and circular saw because so many needed to be made (approximately 150 tails total, including some for other parts of the house not shown here). Finally, a beveled 2x sub fascia provides nailing for the fascia and ties the front of the rafter tails together. Also worth noting is the beveled 2×6 ledger at the top which provides continuous nailing for the double layers of 3/8″ plywood. This provides continuous nailing surface at the back of the soffit. 1:02) that the tails were milled so that when installed onto the 2×6 cleat, the bottom edge of the cleat aligns with the bottom of the rafter tails. The drawings specify a continuous 2×6 cleat to hold 62 rafter tails that are 14″ wide and include a soft slope. This section of the house called for 62 rafter tails, which are spec’d to be installed along the exterior to create an eave detail. The drawings for this Dutch Colonial call for a series of applied tails on several areas of the exterior, including along the sidewalls where the gambrel roof sits. During a recent trip to our Westerly project, Kevin O’Connor caught up with builder Jeff Sweenor to discuss the rafter tail detail and how Sweenor ultimately decided to approach the build. ![]()
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